Sign up with your email address to be the first to know about new products, VIP offers, blog features & more.

Tag Archives Fashion history

Is Burberry making a mistake? | Fashion fail

Is Riccardo Tisci going to f*ck up Burberry?

This is the second time that Burberry has been at the forefront of fashion news this fortnight. The first time for their disposal of their left-over stock. That’s another issue which I actually wanted to write about. But, this may surprise you… The second piece of news – the controversial logo change – now THAT  has triggered me more than all of Burberry’s burning clothes.

THIS IS THE NEW BURBERRY LOGO (be prepared to be underwhelmed):

If you like this new logo, then your opinion is WRONG! 😛

Let me tell you why.

Christopher Bailey would not have committed such a crime when he was at the helm of Burberry.

To me, this logo change doesn’t seem to about Burberry. It screams ego-trip. It’s a power move by Tisci

What is it with new Creative Directors coming into historic brands and the first thing they do is rebrand? Sometimes it’s needed. Burberry could use an overhaul in some areas of their public image, but one thing it did not need is a brand new logo.

Part of their brand identity is heritage and history. This logo is what translates that to me:

My issue isn’t necessarily with Tisci trying to modernise and bring the brand into 2018. Maybe if the new logo was still a serif font I’d have less vexation.

The issue here is that:

  1. The sans-serif just is too over-simplified to translate the luxury and history that Burberry is meant to be all about. I get that many other luxury brands use serif, but there is something about this logo that’s not fitting for Burberry.
  2. This took four weeks to design. Come on now. Apparently, this project actually needed four months! FOUR. MONTHS. To design this… Okay then.
  3. Where is the creativity? It looks like a watered down version of every. other. new. logo. out there.
  4. Following on from this, I feel like these rebranded logos have become a meme of their own. We have Hedi Slimane changing Yves Saint Laurent‘s beautiful script into the plain ‘Saint Laurent’ that we have today. Raf Simmons just changed Calvin Klein’s logo, which was designed by Peter Saville, who, surprise suprise, has designed this new Burberry logo. I mean, just look at how diverse he can be…

We also have Céline, Balenciaga, Diane Von Furstenburg… (the list goes on) with similar looking logos. To me, this new logo is this meme:

Can I copy your homework? sure just change it up a bit so it doesn't look obvious... ok.

Even the new monogram is blah. Why do they need a monogram? We already have the iconic Burberry check. This monogram just looks like a souk’s version of Louis Vuitton and Goyard mashed together.

 

[Read: Five Fashion Fails: Lawsuits filed against fakes]

If it ain’t broke..

In his statement about taking the job [Tisci] said, “I have enormous respect for Burberry’s British heritage and global appeal,”

Vogue

Being British, Burberry is an important brand to me. 2016’s Christmas campaign starring Domhnall Gleeson as Thomas Burberry perfectly captured what the brand is all about. Tisci coming in and demanding a complete rebrand within four weeks doesn’t seem to be someone who really wants to get in touch with the heart of the brand’s history. Imagine the research and archives you’d have at your disposal and the amount of time that it would really take to understand the complexities of what works and also what doesn’t work.

It’s a very bold move, even arrogant, to assume you know the failings and to overhaul everything when you’ve only been in post a couple of months.

To me, this logo change doesn’t seem to about Burberry. It screams ego-trip. It’s a power move by Tisci who wants to show everyone that he’s the new person in charge and he can do what he wants and he’ll get all the praise for any of the publicity it gets.

Italian designers can be brash and bold, which works for certain brands. But here, for Burberry, whose essence lies in innovative practicality – think back to the 1901 classic trench that was designed for British and French soldiers – I can’t see how Tisci is a good match. Come September, we’ll see if I’m proven wrong. I do look forward to seeing Tisci’s first collection, however. Who knows, maybe I’ll review it?

A Burberry gift box

Do you have any thoughts on this? Am I overreacting??? Let me know if you disagree and you like the new logo; I’d be interested to know why!

If you like a ranty post check out my ‘trends that need to die in 2018’!

Share this article

Why perfume will always stand the test of time

The power of perfume

*This post is sponsored by Clive Christian.

Next to flowers, perfume is at the top of the gift list for Valentine’s Day. Why? A perfume can evoke feelings and it can be a symbol of love. Scent is powerful: from its rich history to the way it can evoke emotions and memories. This list of Valentine’s gifts for Him and Her include the very same perfume that Prince William and Kate received for their wedding day. What a romantic gift for a special someone… (or yourself!)

The power of perfume means our love affair for fragrances is going nowhere.

Here’s why:

A royal history of fragrance

Ever since civilisation, perfume has existed. Perfume is an ancient ritual, which goes all the way back to Ancient Egypt, much like the beloved red lipstick. Scientists believe that frankincense was most likely used for Pharoahs’ perfumes, which was understood to be a scent of the Gods. Perfume with expensive and exotic ingredients was a symbol of status.

King Tut (King Tutankhamun Exhibit - Cosmetic Jar with a Recumbent Lion on the Lid)

Ancient Egyptian Cosmetic Jar on display at the King Tut Exhibition.

In 1872 during the reign of Queen Victoria in Britain, The Crown Perfumery was established; this would later become Clive Christian. Queen Victoria was so impressed with the perfumery that she granted permission to use the image of her crown for the crystal bottle-stoppers – a honour which still endures today.

“In ode to Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, who made perfumes for each other as a symbol of their enduring love, many Clive Christian perfumes are created in matching pairs…”

Telegraph

It seems the Christian Clive tradition was passed down to another royal couple…

For His Royal Highness Prince William and Catherine Middleton in honor of their union, Christian Clive was commissioned to create this bespoke presentation of his No.1 perfume. Complete with their initals and diamonds, of course.

The bespoke perfume bottles presented to Catherine and Prince William on their wedding day. The his and hers matched pair of Clive Christian No. 1 Perfumes with gold etched initials for Catherine and William. The perfume bottles are hand-cut crystal with a brilliant-cut diamond solitaire embedded in them. A “C” is etched in gold on the women’s, and a “W” on the men’s—a gift fit for a royal pair.

The bespoke perfume bottles presented to Catherine and Prince William on their wedding day.

How fragrances affect us

It’s well-known that there are strong links between smell and memory. Certain scents can actually affect our physical well-being too.

75% of all emotions generated every day are due to smell, and because of this, we are 100 times more likely to remember something we smell over something we see, hear or touch.”

Scent Research

I like to use a perfume for the first time when I travel to a new place. This is because whenever I smell that fragrance again the next time, I’ll immediately be transported back to that place. There’s a particular fragrance that I only wore whilst living in Madrid and now, when I catch the same scent, I vividly remember walking down Gran Vía.

Why we like some fragrances more than others

Research suggests that our perfume preferences are subconciously based on smells that bring us happy memories. Whether we realise it or not.

“We only learn to think of smells as ‘good’ by associating them with good feelings”. So, liking a scent partly comes down to good memories associated with it.

The other deciding factors as to whether you like a fragrance:

1. Familiarity:

If someone in your family wore a orange-based fragrance, you will be more partial to citrus scents.

2. What your body needs:

If you’re body’s in need of something, you’ll be attracted to a scent that can help. For example, if you’re feeling a bit tense, you’ll be drawn to vanilla which helps you to relax (more on this here).

3. The nature of your personality

Psychologists can tell what your favourite fragrance says about you.

If you’re a night owl, you probably favour oriental notes; outgoing and experimental people will like fruity notes; floral fans tend to feminine, friendly and outdoorsy.

Fun Fragrance Fact

Monkeys use perfume too!

Scientists have found some monkeys, such as the Mexican spider monkey, mix their saliva with crushed leaves to use as a perfume! They may apply this concoction to themselves every two hours in a day.
The aromatic plants they use are: the Alamos pea tree, which has fragrant leaves and flowers, a flowering trumpet tree, and wild celery.


Outstanding perfume creations are forever.

-Clive Christian

Perfume will always stand the test of time

Applying a fragrance becomes habit for many of us. It tells others who we are. Perfume has the power to lift our spirts and bring back fond memories. From ancient civilisations to modern day, perfume has always meant something more to us. The industry continues to grow year-on-year and has no signs of slowing down. I think this is because perfume is more than just a pretty glass bottle that sits on your dressing table.

Is perfume important to you? Leave a comment below!

Articles quoted:

What makes Clive Christian so exclusive

Monkeys use perfume

What perfumes did Ancient Egyptians use?

Scent research

15 things you didn’t know about fragrance

What makes us like or dislike a fragrance?

So THAT’S Why You’re So Attached to Certain Perfumes

What your favourite fragrance says about you

Clive Christian: The scent of royalty

Share this article

Why a red lip is more than just makeup | History of red lipstick

I’m excited about this one, as it’s a collaboration with the gorgeous Siyana! This is our red lipstick collab, so make sure you check out her post here!

Red lipstick is more than makeup; it’s a fashion statement

Cleopatra, Queen Elizabeth I, Sarah Bernhardt, Clara Bow, Rita Hayworth, Marilyn Monroe, Madonna, Dita Von Teese: all iconic women who are recognised for two things in common. One is their ruby lips and, second, being recognised as powerful and strong women, not afraid to push boundaries.

History of the red lip

Makeup is certainly not a modern trend; in fact, it dates back thousands of years.

Birth of red lipstick: Ancient Egypt, 3000 – 2700 B.C.

In Ancient Egypt, royals and nobles would crush semi-precious stones into a paste to decorate their lips. Cleopatra was known for crushing red beetles and ants to make a bright red lip stain.

A lot beauty bloggers may now exclaim in excitement at a new lip launch claiming ‘the colour’s so nice, I could die!’ or ‘this product’s worth dying for!’ Well, for many Ancient Egyptians, that would actually be the case. Wearing lipstick could be life-threatening, thanks to a toxic solution that could lead to serious illness and death!

The phrase ‘Kiss Of Death’ was coined because of the harmful mixture of fucus-algin, iodine, and bromine mannite that Egyptian women used to create lipstick.

Elle

1500s: Royal Red

Elizabeth I’s distinctive look has always been her pale powdered face and cherry lips. She would apply a mixture of crushed crimson plants with beeswax and, from then, her look was coveted by the ladies-in-waiting.

Known as the Virgin Queen, she was as independent and powerful as she was stylish – she didn’t need a husband to rule – just a swipe of lipstick. Although, it was said that she died of blood poisoning caused by her lipstick, which contained noxious mercuric sulphide.

1700s: Red lipstick threatens the government

According to Fashionista, in ‘1770, the British government finally passed a law that formally condemned lipstick on the basis that “women found guilty of seducing men into matrimony by cosmetic means could be tried for witchcraft.” ‘

Lol.

1800s: Coming out

Cosmetics had fallen out of fashion at this point, as Queen Victoria didn’t approve. However, the first actress to make a stand with her red lips was Sarah Bernhardt.

Before this time, women would apply makeup behind closed doors. But, the French actress famously applied her bright rouge lipstick in public. A major taboo at the time!

Why a red lip is more than just makeup | Red lipstick history. Hannah is in a cuddle H&M oversize jumper dress in cream, with classic Burberry check cashmere scarf. Wearing red lipstick in the snow.

I’m wearing a mixture of and  15% off with code GIFT

1920s: Cupid’s bow

Film stars were all wearing deep, dark red lipsticks. Clara Bow, who made the ‘Cupid’s bow’ popular, would wear the darkest shade she possibly find, so that it would show up in black and white films and photos.

That’s the thing about red lipstick – it’s a beautiful case of chicken and egg. It may require confidence to wear, but confidence can actually be a result of putting on red lipstick – and no one needs to know which comes first.

-Psychologies

1930s and 40s: Symbol of resilience

With Word War II, women would begin taking on men’s jobs in the factories and wearing their lipstick let them express their femininity while wearing typically masculine boiler-suits. At the same time, wearing it was an act of defiance.

“Hitler hated red lipstick and would not allow any women around him to wear it since he claimed it contained animal fat from sewage,” – History of red lipstick

Although, we all know the true reason Hitler didn’t like red lipstick was because it empowered women, whereas he preferred women in their traditional roles.
In 1933, Vogue declared lipstick “the most important cosmetic for women,”.

It boosted women’s morale so much that the government actually implemented a scheme for women’s dressing rooms in the factories to always be stocked with lipstick. Elizabeth Arden released their lipstick ‘Victory Red’ and all marketing for it called for the women to wear red in support of the troops and in hope for victory. A far cry from 1700s when the government banned the cosmetic.

1950s: Glamour

The colour red was popular during WWII, but in the late 40s and 50s, it really sky-rocketed globally thanks to internationally famous stars like Marilyn Monroe and Rita Hayworth. Once a colour of seedy-ness, now red lips were the uniform of Hollywood icons.

Marilyn has left such an impact on modern-day culture that her crimson lipstick was voted the most iconic beauty trend of all time.

1960s – 1970s: Pale and nude lipstick revolution

As new icons came in like Twiggy, the new fashion was pale, nude and pastel lipsticks and red lost its allure. But it would not be long until Madonna would revive the shade in the 80s.

My red lipstick collection

I used to be terrified of wearing red lipstick. I dipped my toes in the water with nudes, pinks and paler colours. The more I wear red lipstick now though, the more I want to wear it!

My absolute favourite red lipstick is the , lined with No7 Precision lip liner. From the packaging, to the formula, to the colour, everything about it is so luxurious.

It’s a little bit drying, but the lasting power is amazing. I can go out for dinner and drinks and not need to top it up. It doesn’t even come off on my glass.

Here are my red lipsticks and I would recommend all of them:

Swatches of 1. MAC Matte - Lady Danger, 2. Bourjois Rouge Velvet - Hot Pepper #03, 3. Nars Powermatte - Starwoman, 4. Chanel Rouge Allure Velvet La Fascinante #38, 5.  Lord & Berry - Maraschino #2683, 6. Nudestix Intense Matte - Stiletto, 7. Charlotte Tilbury Matte Revolution - Glastonberry, 8. No7 Precision Lips Pencil - Red.  

Red lipstick is empowerment. Red lipstick symbolises women’s journey to present-day.

Until I started research for this post, I never truly thought about what wearing a red lipstick stood for. It’s only taken around 5,000 years for red lipstick to become fully accepted in society.

No other colour of lipstick has the same feeling or connotations that red lipstick does.

Red lipstick represents what women have gone through and what they stand for. It’s also a reflection on society. As well as looking pretty and making you feel confident in an instant!

If you’ve never had the confidence to wear it or only wear it, I’d say give it a go but starting in baby steps – maybe a subtle a gloss.

It’s great that it’s starting to be embraced again – take one look at the red carpet, the high-street, the office…

I hope you enjoyed this and let me know in the comments what you think. And if you have any recommendations, definitely let me know!

In the post

Jumper: H&M

Scarf: Burberry Cashmere scarf in classic check (Mine’s second-hand chic 😉 Purse friendly option from H&M)

Share this article